how to use a chisel & hammer to remove an old flange,breaking the flange the point of the chisel should be pointed down toward the floor or away from waste pipe when you tap it with the hammer. one or two good whacks should crack the metal..breaking a cast iron hub - plbg.com,re:the right hammer breaking a cast iron hub; author: pbwrencher (wi) im glad you brought-up xh pipe hubs i was just cringing at the lot of answers for sv pipe hubs. the two hammer method is what i learned and use all the time but the right hammers are essentials, they are a 24oz. blacksmith hammer used in back of the hub and a 12oz..
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strike the covered cast iron with a sledgehammer. lift the tarp. examine the cast iron for fractures if it did not already break into pieces. recover the cast iron with the tarp. strike the cast iron roughly in the area of noticeable fractures. continue to strike and inspect the cast iron until it has broken into pieces.
if the fittings are cast iron you can break the fittings with a sledge hammer. you can cut the pipe with a hacksaw or sawzall. but that's the easy part. somewhere you have to be able to connect to good threads or else be able to thread the pipe where you cut it. i loaned someone my copy of the lost art of steam heating.
good advice to grind a section out near base ans insert wood/ply to prevent blockage / breakage of clay pipes below. then from a ladder just hammer to break small chunks away from the top downwards. once you get the cast iron cracked it goes quite easily.
although many cast iron pipes will break cleanly using the cold chisel method, a jagged cut is also not unusual. this may not be an issue — depending on your reason for cutting the pipe. but if you wish to create a smoother cut you should be able to remove any jagged pieces with an adjustable wrench and hammer.
i found a book diagramed how cast iron pipes use lead packing, if i can i break the pipe (ci pipe) with a hammer so all that is left is the lead. slice the lead in 3 places with a sawsall, and pry the lead out with a large screwdriver. last edited: dec 3, 2005.
use a club hammer from the top and break it away in small sections, usefulto have a few bags of sand to throw the pieces down on to...at the bottom the grinder won't reach all the way thru' to make a clean cut, i cut out a section like a large piece of cake which allows the grinder to cut away the remaining back piece....
breaks at cast iron pipes or pipe joints due to mechanical impact, movement due to poor support of the cast iron piping, or similar causes. our photograph above shows that the rope trying to secure the galvanized drain line to the cast iron sewer piping confirm a history of leak troubles and improper plumbing connections.
just start a slot where you want the break with the cut off wheel and with at least half the pipe exposed, hit (a heavy tap) the pipe with a 2 - 4 lb hammer to lengthen the crack till it is most of the way around. then pry side ways with a crow bar till it breaks off.
the “spot repair” is defined as replacing a small section of cast iron pipe inside crawl space or slab with pvc pipe. most of the time these repairs involve breaking a small section of flooring and replacing the worst sections of cast iron with pvc pipe. it is common to see fittings such at 90’s and combinations being replaced because
hitting the cast iron pipe fittings with a hammer will cause the rust to come loose further and will make it easier for you to remove the pipe. be careful not to use too much force, or you might do more harm than good by damaging the pipe. a few solid hits will probably do the job. anything more may be hazardous and destructive.
drill a series of holes, 1/2 inch apart, in the lead seal around the mouth of the over-fitting where two sections of cast-iron plumbing pipe join. 2 pry out the lead, using a flathead screwdriver....
broken cast iron pipes symptoms plumbing problems can lower a property’s market value, lead to extensive water damage, and pollute local aquifers. many houses built prior to 1975 contain cast iron pipes that are approaching the end of their lifespan. you may have contacted your insurance company about replacing old piping or repairing damage from […]
suggestion by cwic is a good one if you have access to one such equipment. the cost of the cutting rod has to be considered as it is expensive. i would try and it with a and create a with a and it with a sharp wedge placed over the notch. it is the simplest technique to
then use some cooking oil spray inside the cast iron pipe hub to make it easier to hammer the donut in. lay a bead of silicon caulk around the donut (it will spread out and need to be cleaned up around the outside once you are done hammering the donut in.) hammer the donut in using a large hammer (or side of a small hammer if in an enclosed space between studs.)
use a heavy duty screwdriver and try not to beat on the cast fitting. good luck addition: if you can wiggle or twist the fitting you want to remove, it will be much easier. turning with a pipewrench will break the lead seal around the pipe and you may be able to remove the pipe and then pull the lead and the okum out of the joint simply.
additionally, all underground pipes are cracked by water hammer regardless of material, e.g., pvc, and hdpe plastics, steel, ductile iron, cast iron, and concrete. in other words, water hammer causes 98% of the water main failures in america, and thousands, perhaps hundreds of thousands, of other piping failures occur in other industries and countries around the world!
a possibility is you have a general corrosion mechanism occurring in a cast iron that has a very high residual stress. when pitting reaches critical depth (can be very shallow) the pipe will 'spontaneously' crack. depending how the pipe was cast, you
the cast iron on each side will continue to crumble or crack and break. trying to fix just sections of cast iron pipes can become a hassle. if we were to attempt to repair a section of rusted cast iron sewer pipe, we would just keep on digging to find where the damage ends, only to find out that it just keeps going!
and cast iron destroys blades fast; i’d go through two or three blades cutting a 4-in. pipe. so recently, i tried a diamond recip saw blade. there are various brands, costing $10-20 each at home centers. i used a lenox 9 in. version that has tangs on both ends, so you can switch ends when one section of the blade gets dull (brilliant!).
next the the lining is installed inside the pipe – the lining is pulled into the pipe using a cable or rope, and it contains a temporary balloon which is inflated to about 15 psi. after a 3-4 hour curing time the pipe lining balloon is pulled out and a brand new rock-hard pipe liner is permanently locked inside the old pipe.
after the lead cools in both vertical and horizontal joints the lead is pounded down into the joint with the inside caulking iron around the circumference of the pipe to set the joint. then the outside caulking iron is used with the caulking hammer around the entire circumference of the joint to finish setting the lead.
cast iron soil pipe may also be cut with a hammer and cold chisel. this method of cutting is very time consuming and should be used only if snap cutters are not available. again, protective equipment, such as safety goggles, should be used.
old cast-iron drainpipe can behave unpredictably. sometimes a small section of a pipe starts to crumble or a joint begins to leak even though most of the pipe is sound. if this is the case, you can easily make a repair. but if a cast-iron pipe is failing at several points, the most economical solution is to replace it with pvc pipe.
cast iron pipes are a type of pipes that are have been in use for plumbing since the 17th century. they are made of iron and due to do oxidation and sue they can slowly chip and slowly fall apart. common problems over the years can develop like: this and many other types of damage can come due to pipe corrosion.